The promise of technology is that it will make our lives easier, in this increasingly high-tech world. From computers to shampoo, we face a stunning array of choices. The flip side of all that modern convenience is information overload. When it comes to dogs, whether you're a novice preparing your first prospect for the ring, or a 30-year veteran with state of the art equipment purchased at your first dog show in 1974, there's hope.

Brushes and Combs
If you're going to be stranded on a desert island with only one tool, pack your brush. Both simple and essential, choose it with care. Even short-coated dogs like Dalmatians do a certain amount of continuous shedding. A good brush feels comfortable in your hand, and leaves a minimum of loose hair after a 20-minute brush-out. Pay attention to the number of bristles: more is better, for pulling hair. If you're noticing as much hair around the dog as on him, chances are you have the wrong brush.

Wood and plastic are the most common materials. Some professionals prefer the feel of wood, saying it transmits into your hand how hard you're brushing the dog. With plastic, you need to pay attention that you don't brush too hard. Most breeds will require a wire slicker brush; for long-coated dogs like a Shih Tzu or Poodle in show coat, a pin brush is often preferred.

A boar's bristle brush pulls oils up on short-coated dogs, for shine. It's not a must-have, and most people wouldn't notice the difference right off; but when you see a bristle-brushed dog in the sunlight, the results can be surprising. For some fanciers, it's a subtlety they eventually notice, and want to do all the time.

While combs come in all shapes, sizes, and finishes, any solid metal dog comb, narrow at one end and wider-toothed at the other, will work for most breeds.

Scissors
Scissors suffer the most abuse. They get knocked off the table, dropped on the floor, are the most-used and least maintained tool. Buy a top-shelf pair (and learn to maintain them properly!). Higher quality steel is lighter in weight, and will scissor better, resulting in a finer finish that lasts longer. Save yourself the headache and the heartache, spend the $7 to $15, and send them out for professional sharpening on a regular basis.

Ergonomic is not automatically better. Some shears designed to prevent carpal tunnel syndrome can wind up causing more strain, if they feel awkward to grasp. Make your own assessment. Rubber rather than metal handles are not for everyone; and some groomers report that cushy grip feels awkward and flimsy, requiring them to muscle through for proper control.

Don't buy the first pair of scissors you see. Check out all your options, and you'll find your best pair.

Clippers
No single tool in the groomer's tack box has seen as much evolution as the electric clipper. This is another must-have where it doesn't pay to skimp. The basic rule of thumb is: the faster a clipper moves, the better the cut. The right clipper provides a smoother cut, a smoother finish, greater efficiency, and saves wear and tear on your joints.

Not just any trimmer will do. Even the softest dog hair is coarser than human hair. Choose a quality animal product; manufacturers offer high-quality products at comparable prices. The trick is to choose the best clipper for the job. Depending on your breed, you may want to go the pro route, and invest in more than one: a clipper for cutting through matted hair, and another for light trimming.

There are two basic things to assess: heat and speed. A clipper that feels hot in your hand means hotter blades; and hotter blades mean more chance of clipper-burning a dog's skin. If you're a novice, better to go with something else until you develop your skill. A less expensive clipper will suffice for shorter jobs, and basic trimming. For heavy, dirty, or matted coats, as in the case of field or herding dogs, you'll need a heavy-duty clipper with a faster blade, that won't overheat with prolonged use. With greater speed parts wear out, and need to be oiled more.

The third factor, again, is what feels good in your hand.

Once you've found the right tool, routine maintenance is crucial. Once a week, open the case and clean out any trapped hair, to save the motor from running hotter than necessary. Oil all parts with regular clipper oil. Keeping your clippers clean and oiled is the smartest thing you can do to ensure they'll work smoothly for many years.

Blades. When you buy a clipper, generally it comes with only one blade. Depending on the desired coat length for your breed, you'll want to buy more blades. The higher the blade number, the shorter the cut will be. You need to adjust what you're actually cutting by the number of blade you're using. Ceramic blades are an interesting innovation, designed to help prevent those burns from fast-moving metal parts. The trade-off is a choppier cut, and a (seemingly) slower moving blade. As yet, nothing provides as smooth a cut as an all-steel blade. Still, it's worth doing your homework to find out what's out there, and how they're being used.